This tutorial is not for people with little or no patience. It's
a somewhat long and tedious job requiring a lot of setting changes. IT'S NOT HARD, JUST needs concentration!
For this tutorial, you will need BladePro for the red & green jewels in the frame and in edges of Mary's garment (I used Jello presets and have no idea who made them or I'd provide a link and credit here). You will be using the gradient fill setting of Metallic or Metallic3, or you may use my gradient preset.
Since the Mary&Jesus stained glass window at the end of the tutorial is what wowwed the crowd, I will run through it again. Unless you write everything down like color settings and gradient settings and tool settings, you will never get the same effect twice.
Open your downloaded image.
In the 'Colors' menu, 'increase' colors to 16 million.
In the 'Layers Palette', right click on it and select 'Duplicate'.
In the 'Layers Palette', right click on the 'Background' layer and 'Delete' it.
Click on the magic wand selector and in the 'Tool Options' box, set
Match mode=RGB Value
in the second tab, checkmark precise cursors to get the 'cross hair' cursor. You will need it because you will be working in very small areas
Click on the black border; here's where you will make your first choice. In the finished images at the bottom of the page, you will notice that the image I'm working on now - the facial features are gold, while in the original - I left them black. IF you want them gold, you will have to select them now by holding down the shift key as you click on each black area of the facial features shown in the red circles below. If you get part of the face instead of the black part - let go of the shift key and undo the last selection, then press down on the shift key again and try selecting it again. I like it as well in black as well as gold, maybe better in black because it brings out the features better.
Once everything you want gold is selected, set your flood fill tool color to white and flood fill the each selected area.
While selection is still outlined, open BladePro or Super BladePro and load your favorite metallic gold preset. If you don't have a metallic gold preset, there are gobs of them in 'the Blading Basket', you just have to find one. (There are, at this time 32 baskets of 136 presets each with a total of 4,352 presets on the site.) There are thousands of 'preset' sites for Blade Pro and Super BladePro. You can use a 'BladePro' preset in 'Super BladePro', but you cannot use a 'Super BladePro' preset in 'BladePro'. I ONLY post BladePro presets for this reason. If you have Super BladePro, you can look at presets on
Pixel Art by Joyce.
Once you have loaded the gold preset and it shows in the preview window in BladePro, click the OK button and it will flood fill the 'black to white to gold' area.
Make sure you got all the gold and either repeat steps 7, 8 & 9 or 'undo' you way back to get it. Once you are happy with your golded area, use the 'Selections' menu to 'invert' the selection (*NOTE: If you are leaving the facial features black, you need to hold down the shift key and use the magic wand to select all of the facial features before inverting.)
Now you can press your 'Delete' key to remove white areas between the golding. This makes it easier to select those areas.
Here's where the work starts! Make sure:
click on the magic wand tool and check the Tool Options box for settings:
Match mode for the magic wand=RGB Value;
Make sure :
click on the Flood Fill bucket and check the Tool Options box for settings:
Match mode=RGB Value;
In PSP 7, click on the top styles box and select the gradient setting (second from the left). In PSP6, it gets set in the Tool Option box.
Click on the gradient styles box to select a gradient. Here, if you downloaded my setting, look for 'csgStainedGlass'; if not - choose either Metallic or Metallic3.
How to flip settings (VERY important to realism).
*Information: You will be switching settings in each selection so the stained filling looks realistic. When colored glass is cut for stained windows, the streaking pattern will change in each piece. (Looks like I compressed this one too tight! groan). There are 3 settings that you can alternate through to get this effect:
Angle can be changed using the number setting or the little drag controller over the pattern (I use the drag for more control over the variance).
Repeat can be changed around using settings of 3, 2, 1 or 0.
Invert can be checked and unchecked.
These are your 3 variance controls. When flood filling, you will fill a few scattered selected areas, then change your setting and fill a few more scattered selections and then change a setting and go again until all of the selected areas are filled. Will make more sense in a moment.
Since you are going to use 'Colorizing' to get your color, you will want to do 1 of two things:
1 make sure you get all of the pieces of each article at one time
2 write down the color setting you used for each different article.
*Note: The stained glass look is derived from the gradient fill and not from the colorizing - so switch this setting often!
Should have another pic here but I goofed. What I did was this: with the magic wand tool, click in one section of an area (I started with the blanket area), then hold down the SHIFT key and continue making selections until you have the whole blanket selected (WATCH OUT FOR LITTLE JESUS" ARM and MARY's FINGERS - you don't want it in the selection!)
Once they are ALL selected, change to the flood fill tool and one by one, click in several scattered pieces that don't connect;
then change the directional setting using any one of the 'controls' outlined in step 15;
flood fill more scattered pieces next to the pieces already done;
change the directional setting again and flood fill a few more - *continue until every piece is flood filled.
When all of your selected areas are flood filled with the gradient, from the 'Colors' menu, select 'Colorize'.
*NOTE: There are two settings in the 'Colorize' window, hue and saturation.
Hue is the colors and you choose a color by typing in a number, using the up/down arrows, by sliding the blue line beneath the numbers and arrows or by clicking the larger down arrow and dragging the scaled markings (the colors in the right preview window will change as you use one of the control methods.
Saturation is the depth of the color (controls are used the same way as for Hue). Depth of colors will change in the right preview window as you move the controls. The left preview window always shows the original colorings (since I forgot to make a graphic of this window, I used a finished pic to go back and capture the settings window - you should see the gold, white and greyed gradient colors.
DON'T PANIC when you see that the entire pic is change in color because only the selected areas will be colored when you click the OK button. I favor settings between 63 and 67 on the saturation). First adjust your color, then the saturation. These are the two numbers you might want to jot down if you don't trust your color conception to go back and do a piece you forgot to select later. Just make sure you don't select a piece that you aren't sure is part of the object you are coloring because it's the devil on wheels to try to recolor where you have already colored over a gradient. Colorizing affects all selected areas at once.
Select the color you want for the item you're coloring.
Click the OK button and you will have one item colored. Don't like it? Undo and colorize again. Once you've unselected those areas, the only way to get back to them is to undo your way to them. Oh, NO! Now that it's colorized, you see a piece that should have been part of that object - don't worry, colorize holds it's last settings until you change them; select that missing piece, flood with the gradient then colorize without moving the settings.
Now you go on to the next object you want to work on. For VERY small areas, you might want to zoom in on the work area - I DID! Like the hair, the eyes and so on.
How I completed it: I went to Mary's garment and excluded the small jeweled areas in the lapels and cuffs and colored the rest of the robe, then I did the faces, arm, fingers by using a orangeish gold hue at a very low saturation point, then I did the halos and the star, then I did the lit background area; when everything but the jewel areas were finished, I set the flood fill color back to the solid color and white; then I selected several of the jewels, flooded them with white and used BladePro with the jello-lime preset to flood them; then I selected the rest of the jewels, flooded with white and Bladed with jello-cherry. I used paintbrush and paint at 50% opacity for the iris of the eyes.
Now the image is almost completed.
From the 'Layers' menu, select Merge/Merge all(Flatten) and save your image before the power blips on you!
You're finished! Now do it again! Just kidding. Once
is enough for this graphic but you can use the same technique for any color
book type image!
You will notice the difference in the colors I used - not so much in the colors but in the depth (saturation) of colors. The right one I did because I wanted it so bad for Christmas - the left, I did to write this tutorial so I wasn't as interested in the color scheme - just interested in showing how I accomplished it.
Zipped tutorial in pdf format is a 1.71MB download.
Close Window when Finished.
tutorial by CSGreen
I do not use image compression when I create but made an exception in the case of tutorials for the sake of load time.